![]() But no way you can tell what the vendor will send you, so that info does nothing to assure that you’ll get real TFFs. Also, the fakes were much longer than “normal” TFFs. The good ones ALL had the cello wrap hologram and had MUCH more overlap by the label on the buttom. But they DID have the hologram letters on the labels, so much for that stopping counterfeiting. I’m going to save my good protected batts for my 2-cell lights and go with the GOOD sanyo, panny, sony and Samsung flat-tops until the current bad TFFs clear out - if that ever happens.īTW, the bad ones (from 2 different vendors) ALL were missing the hologram on the outside cello wrap and ALL had very little of the TF label holding the bottom neg plate on. The other TFFs work fine and of course the flat-tops ALWAYS work fine. They shut the circuit down if you try to go to high on the light. HALF are fakes and won’t work in my HD 2010, Ke-5, sipik sk98 and others. I just got 10 pairs of TFFs yesterday and today - from trusted ebay and web site vendors. ![]() If I need batts, I’m going with flat tops for a while from known trusted dealers, if there really is such a thing in China, which pains me to say that. That magnet sliding into the light barrel just scares the bejesus outta me. I didn’t do all my flat tops with the solder, hoping another solution would come along, which it did from Johnny Mac and Allthumbs! I’ll experiment with both. ![]() Not factory perfect but works great and looks pretty good too. I got a really regularly shaped blob and then squared off the top with a file. I did like 8-10 cells with the solder blob. Glued magnets and the washer solution - GREAT ideas both. What could I use for buttons? Or is there another way to make a button-top from a flat-top? There has to be a simple solution to this that many people are doing every day. So buttons would be best if they were hollow so they heated fast and cooled quickly so the soldering pen doesn’t zap the battery, although I haven’t had any experience soldering li-ion battery poles. Not all the time, but enough to be a concern. I don’t know the technical reasons why this happens, but it does. ![]() I have soldered leads to batteries in non-flashlight projects only to find that just a few secs from a soldering iron zapped the battery dead. BUT I know from personal experience with batteries that a FAST light touch is needed when soldering anything to a battery. I am pretty good with a soldering pen as I own an audio cable company and spend hours every day soldering all manner of electric stuff. Yes, I know the trick of using a little button magnet on the flat-top batt’s pos pole, and it works great, BUT in some decidedly nontechnical tests, I found that by tapping the battery on the side against a table, I could eventually move the magnet so that it would contact the flashlight barrel, which would create an uncontrolled short in an unprotected cell, something we all like to avoid Besides it seems to make more sense to mod the flat-top 18650s with some kind of button so they work in every flashlight. I could ADD a spring to the battery compartments of several lights, but a few would be really hard to mod this way because the way the internals are set up. Since flat-tops are flat-tops, they don’t work in springless batt compartments, no surprise there, because they can’t make contact. I would like to use nonprotected li-ion batteries in several flashlights that do not have an internal spring in the flashlight battery compartment. Anyone know what to use as a button to solder or otherwise attach to the positive terminal of flat-top 18650 batts?
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